The laid back Mediterranean feel of Amman, continuously changing countryside and beautiful antiquities such as Petra make Jordan an amazing place to visit. If you only have a weekend, Petra, the Dead Sea and Amman are must sees; but, the more time the better because you could spend weeks visiting the wonderful sites in this “Camel Heaven.”
Arriving in Jordan, we headed straight out on the hour drive to the Dead Sea, stopping to see the intricate mosaics in Madaba at the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George and the memorial of Moses at Mount Nebo. From Mount Nebo you have your first glimpse of the Dead Sea and a great view of the Jordanian countryside where it meets Israel. Heading down the mountain your ears pop as you go below sea level to reach the resorts on the northern end of the Dead Sea.
The sea may be dead, with nothing able to live in its salty waters, but it certainly isn’t ugly! The water is beautiful and on a clear day you have a great view of the orange rocky hills on the other side in Israel. Floating in the mineral-rich water with its incredible buoyancy is a must and if you’re looking for directions check out my previous post on “How to Float in the Dead Sea.” You, like the ancient Kings and Queens of the past, will not regret spending some time in this health enriching water. Stay for the amazing sunset and see the lights from Jerusalem peeking out from the distant hill tops and then have an early morning float before it’s time to move on.
Drive south along the Dead Sea and then cut across on a desolate road towards Petra that goes high into the mountains to stop for some incredible views. Before heading into the mountains you’ll find “Camel Heaven” as I was quoted for calling it. There are Bedouin camel farms where you can stop to see the herds grazing like cattle. Once you get into the mountains, the narrow road twists and turns as you climb to the top. Stopping for a view, you get out into what feels like one of the quietest places on earth. It’s as though you need to whisper because you’re up so high with absolutely no one around. Continuing on, the rocky desert mountains gradually develop some greenery near the end of the 3 hr drive as you start to reach Petra.
Petra was one of the crossroads of the ancient world and today it’s an intricately carved stone city where you could spend days clamoring around to view the temples, tombs and dwellings. Hiking through the passages like Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the first sight of the Treasury takes your breath away. Climbing the 800+ steps to the Monastery (Al-Deir) may feel like climbing a mountain, but once you reach the top, you realize it was worth the physical exertion.
Five hours was all we had to see Petra and while we saw all the architectural highlights, had a camel ride, have hundreds of pictures to prove it and were completely exhausted by the end, it really didn’t even scratch the surface of what there is to see. We didn’t bother with a guide and opted to go out on our own. The main path leads you to the Treasury and from there you can take a number of paths up to see tombs close up or continue on further into Petra. Countless local kids will try to push you into riding their donkeys up to the Monastery (upper left corner of guide map, while you enter on the lower right) claiming it’s over an hour walk from the old city centre, but in reality it only takes 30-45 minutes if you walk at a continuous pace. If you have never had a camel ride I’d highly recommend it – Loved every moment of it! The Bedouin camel guide was very friendly and happy to talk about Petra, its history and lifestyle of the Bedouin people.
From Petra, we stayed the night in Wadi Rum; however, if you only have a weekend I’d recommend heading back to Amman or staying the night near Petra and then driving in the morning. Traveling North to Amman along the King’s Highway you can stop to see the castle at Karak or just head straight into the city to explore the great sites, shops and restaurants. The drive should take you about 3 hrs (4 from Wadi Rum) and is much less interesting than the drive from the Dead Sea to Petra along the smaller roads. While the scenery may not change, keep your eyes open – you just may pass some baby camels riding in the back of a truck further demonstrating that Jordan is my “Camel Heaven!”
